Shoe lining having self-stiffening properties



Sept; 23, 1952 R. B. HARRISQN SHOE LINING HAVING SELF-STIFFENING PROPERTIES Filed May 20. 1950 Patented Sept. 23, 1952 's'HoncmING-HAWNG sEcF-sTiFFEmNG PROPERTIES Raymond- 13: lEIarrison, Arlington, -Mass Application May-72o; 1950,;Seria l'iN6? 1331120 Thisinventibn' consists of an improved shoe lining having stiffeningproperties fo'i "'1ise1n the"= construction" of shoe uppiers: More particularly it comprises aunitary structure possessing! counter: stiffening properties and presenting a quarter linlngsurface. The irrip'roved lining is I of the thermosoftening-ty'pe so=that it may-be as sembled "with counter portions-of upper leather or other" outer integume'nt in wheat-softened and moldableconditionand molded to the cbntour'oi the' last -durlng the pulllng' oven and heel lastlng steps of the shoemaking -processz heretofore ithas-"beenthe general pra'ctlce; in-

the construotion oi'thecounter portionsof shoes;- to inserta fiber counter stifieneras a distinct or unitary element between the 1catheror outer ifiteg-ument and an innertextua Iimng: The stiffener 'niayhemoldedeither separately or 'wit'h the other plies or the' counter pocket; but in commercial shoemak'ing practice a" three ply constructionhas generally-beenconsidered neces sary and this entails fitting, tempering" and" asslam-bung operations which mustb'e carried' out with accuracy in' order 'to'lnsur'e a-= satisfactory. product; The three ply construction which in-- c1udeea-fibre stifienef also necessarilyresultsin a. considerable and sometimes objectionable thlckn'e'sspf material which it is" often difiicult toshape sir'mothlyand accurately" to the last about the heel seatofthe shoe: It is usually 520mm; (01. 154?); a

in the quarter 1mmg surfsce that-ispre'sente considered necessary" to apply. an adhesive toone or both" facesof the: counter-- stiffener to secure it-'adhe'sively'to"atleast one "of itsenclos 1n'g-" pliesand generallyt'o both of them} PatentNo; 2,391,445;- dated December 2511945", discloses a fiberboardrcoimter sti'fien'er having a resinous surface coating "with an embossed pat tern thereon! This" unit is designed toi'b'e com= b'ined" with shoe upper material and molded to form the counter portionof'a' shoe prior" toa's sembling it in the shoe upper: Suchprocedure" is not appropriate, however, for the production of shoesof more conventional styles and types. The principal object of" this invention" is: to

providealaminatedupper-llninewhich will'serve shoemaking process both because less material=- is usedand because the numberof shoemaki-ng operations required is" correspondingly reduced. 7

The counter portion that results fromfutilization offthis*invention -inashoe constructionpossesses struction' which presents =a more "readilymeld composite stiffening andmuarter lining memlo all the cfiaraetensucs'ori bufiters o' tne trireeply construction b'oth inthestiffeningeffect antlif Further; ithas the -feel of leatherco'unt stifienersfused im the more -expensive shoesrlde mg flexible in the top section as well ems-stiff and firmtowardthe bottom. An-important vantagerealized through use of improv quarter portioii'as W611 as acounterstiifener -t e becomes molded} to thelast-=in= a" thermos'oftened% state; duringt'hepulling-over and-lieel lastinw steps; and requirifig' nO' preIiminarYmOIdinQ T opef eration as-"such; H

Theinvention; also includes witmw its scope P a" composite stiffener and' quarter' -lining member which will become adhesivel secured' to; th outer integument during? the 1 coming overana heel? lasting steps therebyeliminating'ithe sep;

arate ste'p of 'cemeritingitheconventional-count r stifiener toj-theupper leather? t I havediscovered that-these and othe desir able results-may-he"achieved hy employin as t af'laminated three ply construction comprising foundation ply of reinforcing and suppor'tif fabric;-a-plyi='of afconventionalhunter-liningmas te'ri'a l andan-intermediateply of resilientthermosof-tening fll-hi formingbondine composition which actsto*bond the-quarter lin' j ing "to the-foundation pl-ya l Optionallythe coni p'osite unit may icarry on the" outer surfacect? its foundatiorv ply a; coatin'g or a heat sensitive adhesive adapted to secure the composite unit? to the upper"letltier- 01* otl leifrflilter ii lteglin le the same time'the-counter ismolded-i The reinforcing and supporting fou nelaitiofi 161:? may be -ot any fib'rous -or textile fab'ri sheet. Itsessential function is to form thiri an stirti turally strong-- base -plymd hi ithequartefilm mg material can be permanently- -attaclnecl through theme'dium of a -bohdiiig compositiom while a woven textile materiaLi-such asJaniO'snai-fi berg, of weight 65 ydse per pound may' be used;--' it is' preferable tensea'- mater ial possessinggreater body and greater" tensile": st eng thi A ver y satisfactorymaterial= comprises twoi-plyi lami-nation of single nap' fiannel whio is formed by 'iinpregnating and bonding th'e name new sidestbgethifiwith a polyvinyl'iacetate emulsion of 'the equivalent which; after pro emontr'onec distribution- Of-" itS SOIidS thro'ilgh'dufi 17h 15976 fabrics anq subsequent:denydiauomresults in a tough" and:- durablil' strong laminate mportantlycharacterized by the thermoplasticity of the continuous polyvinyl stiffening film. Thus the stiffened two-ply fabric when used as a foundation ply provides a shoe structure light in gauge and adapted to reproduce the compound curvature of the heel of a normal shoe last when the ply is softened by heat and caused by pressure or tension to conform to the last.

The quarter lining ply consists of any of the conventional quarter-lining materials available on the market as yard goods. A very satisfactory material is that sold under the trade name of Kafsted." first been impregnated with latex, then surface coated with a film forming material, as pyroxylin or a vinyl compound, and thereafter given an embossed surface which resembles leather or fabric in appearance. higher quality and cost consists in flannel which is impregnated with pyroxylin rather than latex.

{The ,thermo-softening bonding adhesive may teeny flexible, moisture-resistant film-forming composition which softens sufficiently by either moist or dry heat to conform unresistingly to thecurvatures of the heel of a last under the cal lastingpractice and at temperatures commonly utilized in pre-heating shoe uppers preparatory to lasting operations and capable of being rendered adhesive by the use of such moist or dry heat or through the application of appropriate solvents, or both. This same bonding adhesive as used to attach the foundation ply to adhesive, is subject to be cut into blanks of the desired shape by conventional methods. Such blanks are thereafter skived around their base and top edges so that the stitching employed around the top line of the blank may pass through a plurality of the fibers in order to improve stitching tear strength. In using such. blanks in force-lasted shoes made under the conventional California process, scarfs around the base of the blank will be of such length so as to cause the edge of theblank to be resiliently soft in receivingthe stitches required to attach it to the sock lining at all points where both become co engaged. Y

. Inaccordance with the present invention, by using the bonding composition to secure adhesively the quarter lining material in its functional relationship to the foundation ply as well asto. impart some stiffness to the ultimate combination, the necessity of separately cementing a counter-stiffener to the quarter lining is obviated; and by using conventional quarter lining fabric as one of the plies of the laminated self-stiffening;llning, the need of a separate ply of fabric used in conventional shoe structure is similarly eliminated. Thus the invention results in a savingof the cost of separately preparing and moldmg counters, the cost of assembling such counters in shoes, cementing counters in place, andithe danger of misplaced stiifeners in the shoe. ,It alsoobviates the necessity of carrying;

It consists of a flannel which has A quarter lining ply of '4 large inventories of counters of different sizes and styles.

These and other features of the invention will be best understood and appreciated from the following description of a preferred embodiment thereof, selected for purposes of illustration and shown in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view showing schematically a convenient method of preparing the preferred foundation ply,

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic view showing schematically the preferred method of combining the foundation ply and quarter lining material with the'stiifener bonding material,

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the combined counter member showingits elements in assembled relation, and

I of Fig. 3 showing the plies of the upper in sometensions presented thereto by normal mechaniwhat exaggerated thickness.

The preferred foundation ply may be conveniently prepared as shown in Fig. 1. Two rolls 1; and la of single nap flannel of the desired weight and width, e. g. about 3.90 yards per 1b., 44 inches wide, are through-tensioning rollers 2 -2 and combining, nap sides together, at the guide roller 3. The combined plies of flannel forming the foundation sheet 20 are then saturated with polyvinyl acetate emulsion 5 contained in a trough 4 in which, is y a submerged roller 6 around which pass the composite sheet 20. From the submerged roller .Gthe composite sheet passes upward and thence over the supporting guide rollers I: to a-pair of'squeeze rollers 8 8 adjusted as to their relationship to remove excess emulsion 5a which drains back to the trough 4 by way of the apron [0 extending from under the lower roller 8 to the trough 4 and by way of the upper surface of the composite sheet 20. The composite sheet 20 is then dried by passing around several steam heated drums 9 and finally-through banks l2 of infrared lampsbeing guided therethrough by the rollers I4. The rate at which the composite sheet material 20 can be produced is dependent upon the rate of drying and must be adjusted so that a dry product emerges.

The compositesheet 20 may now be combined as a foundation ply in producing the laminated self-stiffening quarter lining of this invention as shown in Fig. 2. The foundation ply 20 and or embossed surface'coating 22 on the outer side. A bank of a suitable stiffening and bonding composition 23 is maintained betweenthe foundation ply 20 and the quarter lining material 2| at their" entrance to the nip of the calender rollers 25-45 in an adhesive condition. One very satisfactory composition consists of Emample 1 i rendered adhesivebyheating it to a temperature approximating260iF.

1 Whil i is'w t .in. he s nibf ihi was.

simultaneously unrolled, passing By varying. the relationship of the calender rollers 25, illustrated in Fig. 1, and by using heavy fiannel which absor-bsi-greaten quantities of the emulsion-solids, it is possible to producev stiffer and thicker foundation plies for use heavy footwear. Accordingly the settingof the calender rollers 25 will depend onthe desired thickness of thefilm of bonding composition 24, andIrbecontrolled by the desiredstiflne'ssi of tli'e lami hated combination-fromwhicli'ithe selflstiifen' ing limng.of' thisinvention. is produced.

5 y improved countenliningiiasishown iii-Fig; 33, is died out in the required shape from the laminated sheet shown in Fig. 2. Preferably the top margin 30 of the foundation ply 20 is skived to provide for a neat assembly with the upper in the counter portion of the shoe and to facilitate the molding of the counter portion to the heel of the last during the pulling over and heel lasting steps. If it is desired to combine adhesively this counter lining with the outer integument, a coating 32 of a heat activating adhesive may be applied to the foundation ply surface. This adhesive may be the same as that described in Example 1. Satisfactory adhesives include those which will become activated at the temperature at which the counter lining itself is softened. A successful and typical adhesive composition is as follows:

Example 2 50 parts by weight gum rosin The ingredients are combined by melting them together while stirring.

A coating of this adhesive can be applied by any of the conventional methods, for instance brushing, roller coating or knife coating the molten material on the backing material surface of either the laminated combination in sheet form or the individual counter lining out therefrom.

In manufacturing shoes embodying the improved counter lining of this invention ordinary shoemaking processes are used. The improved counter lining is conveniently stitched, like any lining, along its margin to the outer integument 28 of the upper which has previously been skived and edge folded to provide a finished edge and provided with a doubler 29, all as shown in Figs. 3 and 4. The combined counter pieces are then heated to render the laminated counter lining soft and moldable, and when the foundation ply of the counter lining'carries a coatingof heat activating adhesive, to activate the adhesive. Heating may conveniently be done in heaters similar to conventional box toe steamers or in adaptations thereof. The counter pieces are then assembled on the last as parts of the stitched upper of the shoe and the upper is pulled over and lasted in the conventional manner, thereby counter portion; of 1 the upper-is: againheatedsand'z the: foundationply-fining;re softenedmtoa idea-ti?" lasting: temperature:-

Accordingly; .the: Whole quarter. portion of: the, shoe is conformedi: ace-us ratelygt-o the contour -of the-last without-further:

attention than is required to( carrybutthewusuai-x heel: seat lasting step. l 1

In addition to;-verysubstantial:savingssirrshcee makingcos-ts, the improved counterlining; of invention materially improves the appearance fr.

-z the insideof the counter-portion of. thezshoa im part nsr e it a smo h-and- 1 mefiectsandzpn viding a sharp and distinct peripheral line between the sock lining and the upright walls of the upper.

A further advantage flows from the effect of the heat upon the exterior leather of the upper in causing the leather to shrink tightly and smoothly to the stiffening member, thereby eliminating the need for ironing such exterior heel portions of the upper as is usually done in a high percentage of shoe production.

Havin thus disclosed my invention and described in detail a preferred method in which it can be carried out, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. A laminated unitary shoe lining moldable under heat and pressure, having self-stiffening properties and comprising a foundation ply of woven textile material impregnated with a stiffening compound, a ply of quarter lining material, and an intermediate ply of thermc-softening film-forming bonding material adapted to combine adhesively the foundation ply and the quarter lining ply, and having a film of a heat-activatable adhesive compound on the outer surface of the foundation ply adapted to become adhesively activated and to secure the laminated lining combination to the outer integument of the upper of the sho when heated and subjected to pressure in the pulling over and heel lasting steps of the shoemaking process.

2. A laminated unitary shoe lining moldable under heat and pressure having self-stiffening properties and comprising a foundation ply of two or more sheets of woven fabric impregnated and bonded together with a thermosoftening adhesive material, a ply of textile quarter lining fabric, and an intermediate ply of thermosoftening film-forming bonding composition adapted to unite adhesively the foundation ply and the quarter lining fabric.

3. A laminated quarter lining moldable under heat and pressure having self-stiffening properties and comprisin a foundation ply, a ply of woven fabric impregnated with a stiffening composition and having an embossed surface coat of a thermoplastic film-forming material, and an intermediate ply of thermosoftening film-forming bonding material adapted to unite adhesively the foundation ply.

4. A laminated quarter lining moldable under heat and pressure having self-stiffening properties and comprising a foundation ply of two sheets of flannel disposed nap-to-nap, impregnated and bonded together with a thermosoftening stiffening compound, a ply of fabric imp-regnated with a stiffening compound and having an embossed surface coat of a flexible film-forming composition, and an intermediate ply of a thermosoftening film-forming bonding composi-' m adapted to unite adhesively the foundation ply and the fabric'ply; l V

a.5'. A' laminated quarter lining moldable under heat and pressure shaving self-stiffening proper-' tiesand comprising a foundationeply of a, plurality of sheets of flannel impregnated and bonded together withpolyvinyl acetate, a'ply of textile fabric impregnated'with a. rubber latex and having' an embossed surface coating, an intermediate ply or a composition consisting of opal wax, ethyl 10 laminated; combination to .n the outer -'i'ntegument of ithe'upperiof the shoe whenisoftenedaduring the A pulling over and heel lasting-steps of'the shoemakingproeess.

REFERENcEsc'I'TED F The following references" are of record in the file-of this patent: r

' UNI ITED STATES PATENTS Number Name .Date;

293,037. l, Clark Feb. 4,1919 1;642,877 Hartwell Sept. 20, 1927. 1,840,603. Pratt Jan.;12,.l932

2,097,417- Neiley. 0019,26 1937 Riemann B. HARRISON; 

5. A LAMINATED QUARTER LINING MOLDABLE UNDER HEAT AND PRESSURE HAVING SELF-STIFFENING PROPERTIES AND COMPRISING A FOUNDATION PLY OF A PLURALITY OF SHEETS OF FLANNEL IMPREGNATED AND BONDED TOGETHER WITH POLYVINYL ACETATE, A PLY OF TEXTILE FABRIC IMPREGNATED WITH A RUBBER LATEX AND HAVING AN EMBOSSED SURFACE COATING, AN INTERMEDIATE PLY OF A COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF OPAL WAX, ETHYL CELLULOSE AND STEARIC ACID ADAPTED TO UNITE ADHESIVELY THE FOUNDATION PLY AND THE EMBOSSED PLY, AND HAVING A FILM OF A COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF GUM ROSIN, EHTYL CELLULOSE AND STEARIC ACID ON THE OUTER SURFACE OF THE FOUNDATION PLY ADAPTED TO BECOME ADHESIVELY ACTIVATED AND TO SECURE THE LAMINATED COMBINATION TO THE OUTER INTEGUMENT OF THE UPPER OF THE SHOE WHEN SOFTENED DURING THE PULLING OVER AND HEEL LASTING STEPS OF THE SHOEMAKING PROCESS. 